Kinnaur is the frontier district of Himachal Pradesh that lies beyond the great Himalayan range and getting there had never been easy. Despite remarkable improvement in the road condition in recent years, a trip to Kinnaur still remains an adrenaline- pumping journey and is definitely not for the faint hearted.
Much of the thrill of visiting Kinnaur lies in the awe-inspiring journey from Rampur Bushar, to Powari (91 kilometres.) on the NH22, (earlier called the Hindustan –Tibet road.) which passes through one of the most striking and rugged landscapes of the Himalayas. It is here where the mighty Satluj River and the Great Himalayas clash for their continued existence. While the raw power of the river erodes deeper and deeper into the hard rocks, tectonic forces from within the earth gently nudge the Himalayas higher and higher. The result of this conflict is a dramatic landscape that has few parallels.
The road follows the Satluj River from Rampur, crisscrossing it on several occasions over wobbly suspension bridges. At many places, especially at the infamous Taranda ‘dhank’ (cliff) it is literally carved into the perpendicular cliffs with a vertical drop down to the turbulent Satluj.
The rugged mountains rise up to spectacular heights after Wangtoo bridge and the Satluj is in its most ferocious mood here. The turbulent river splashes and pounds the rocks as it squeezes through the narrow gorge in a deafening roar. At Karcham, the road again traverses to the left bank where the clear water of the Baspa river merges with the Satluj and a road bifurcates to the scenic Sangla valley.
The Satluj flows through a stunning gorge carved deep through the Greater Himalayas between Karcham and Powari. Vertical rocky cliffs rise up to incredible heights on both sides of the river. A few chilgoza pines grip the perpendicular rock face and massive boulders lie balanced precariously over the ledges. The sky is barely visible and the murky river rages down this narrow chasm with colossal force and energy. The immensity of the landscape and the might of the river are simply overpowering and it is here one can experience the awesome power of nature that makes even the greatest human endeavors look trivial.
As one tries to rush through this haunting landscape, progress is slowed by the numerous shepherds who move along this road with their flock to the higher pastures. About 10 Kilometers from Karcham, the road again shifts to the right bank over the Shongtong bridge to Powari. A link road from here meanders up the slope to Reckong Peo and further up through dense forest of deodar to Kalpa. Reckong Peo is the district headquarters of Kinnaur district.
This stretch of road in Kinnaur may not be among the top most dangerous roads in the world but it comes pretty close and no matter what changes development bring to this tribal district, the thrill of visiting Kinnaur will remain as long as the million year old battle between the Satluj river and the great Himalayas rages on.
